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| Bosporus |
| A stay in Istanbul
is not complete without the traditional and unforgettable boat excursion
up the Bosphorus, the winding strait that separates Europe and Asia.
Its shores offer a delightful mixture of past and present, grand splendor
and simple beauty. Modern hotels stand next to yali (shorefront wooden
villas), marble palaces abut rustic stone fortresses, and elegant
compounds neighbor small fishing villages. The best way to see the
Bosphorus is to board one of the passenger boats that regularly zigzag
along the shores. You embark in Eminonu and stop alternately on the
Asian and European sides of the strait. The round-trip excursion,
at a very reasonable cost, takes about six hours. If you wish a private
voyage, you can contact one of the agencies which specialize in organizing
day or night mini-cruises. During the journey, you pass in front of
the magnificent Dolmabahce Palace; farther along rise the green parks
and imperial pavilions of Yildiz Palace. On the edge of this park,
on the coast, stands Ciragan Palace ,now restored as a grand hotel.
Refurbished in 1874 by Sultan Abdlaziz, it stretches for 300 meters
along the Bosphorus shore, its ornate marble facades reflecting the
swiftly moving water. In Ortaky, the next stop, artists gather every
Sunday to exhibit their works in a streetside gallery. The variety
of people create a lively scene; sample a delicious bite from one
of the street vendors. In Ortaky, there is a church, mosque and a
synagogue that have existed side by side for hundreds of years - a
tribute to Turkish secularism and tolerance. Overshadowing Istanbul's
traditional architecture is the Bosphorus Bridge, one of the world's
largest suspension bridges linking Europe and Asia. The beautiful
Beylerbeyi Palace lies just past the bridge on the Asian side. Behind
the palace rises amlica Hill, the highest point of Istanbul. You can
drive here to admire the magnificent panorama of Istanbul as well
as the beautiful landscaped gardens. On the opposite shore, the wooden
Ottoman villas of Arnavutky contrast with the luxurious modern apartments
of neighboring Bebek. A few kilometers farther out, facing each other
across the straits like sentries guarding the city, stand the fortresses
of Rumeli Hisari and Anadolu Hisari. The Gksu Palace, sometimes known
as Kksu Palace graces the Asian shore, next to Anadolu Hisari. The
second link between the two continents; the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge
straddles the waterway just past the two fortresses. From Duatepe
Hill, on the European side, you can admire the magnificent panorama
of the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below Duatepe, beautiful Emirgan
Park bursts with color when the tulips bloom in spring. Opposite,
on the Asian shore is Kanlica, a fishing village now a favored suburb
for wealthy Istanbulites. Crowds gather in the restaurants and cafes
along its shores to sample its famous yogurt. Shortly after Kanlica
and ubuklu is the Beykoz Korusu (Abraham Pasa Woods), a popular retreat.
In the cafes and restaurants you can enjoy the delightful views and
clear fresh air. On the European side, at Tarabya Bay, yachts seem
to dance at their moorings. The coast road bustles with taverns and
fish restaurants from Tarabya to the charming suburbs of Sariyer and
Bykdere. Sariyer has one of the largest fish markets in Istanbul and
is also famous for its delicious varieties of milk puddings and brek
(pastries). A little further on past Sariyer, the narrow strait widens
and disappears into the Black Sea. |
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